Alpine savvy knots. Brake knots for two person glacier travel .

Alpine savvy knots (Tip: start with a larger bight than you think you need to, at least 2 feet. Here's a simple way to do it, courtesy of Petzl. Alpine Anchors - 14:43 (If you're going to watch just one video on gear anchors, this is a great choice) 1 - Quad anchor - keep the knots low. Remember the Golden Rule: if you think there’s the slightest chance of the knot pulling through the hardware, then don't do it! Jul 15, 2019 · The bowline can be a helpful knot for climbers to fix a rope around a tree or boulder. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Rock skills - anchors. How to Set Up a Top Rope Anchor on Two Bolts - 5:58. This has a few advantages: it brings your master point up a bit higher, because the knot takes up more cord, and because of the extra turns, it's easier to untie at the end of the day. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Using ascenders means you can easily pass them around any brake knots that might be on the loaded rope. . Image credit: The French National Mountain Guide School (École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme) or ENSA, Youtube: “Alpinisme, techniques et sécurité sur un Tying figure 8 knots in the VT-X cord breaks about half of the rated strength, but the same knot tied in nylon cord breaks about 3/4 of the rated strength! This tells us that tech cord loses a larger percentage of the rated strength when you tie knots in it. Seems he didn't sufficiently check his damn knot. The flat overhand knot (formerly known as the European Death Knot, or EDK) is a fine choice for general rappelling. Jul 20, 2018 · In practice, we use “knot” as an umbrella term to cover all these types, but the distinction is useful to know. I love it because the sheath is very abrasion resistant, and the Kevlar core is super strong. These are the clip in points for the two end people. With a quad anchor, if you’re using a cordelette or longer sewn sling like a 180 cm or 240 cm, it's good practice to tie the knots low down as shown. Jul 2, 2024 · Tying figure 8 knots in the VT-X cord breaks about half of the rated strength, but the same knot tied in nylon cord breaks about 3/4 of the rated strength! This tells us that tech cord loses a larger percentage of the rated strength when you tie knots in it. Dec 17, 2018 · The knots typically shorten the length of a fall, and make it easier for the person on top to hold the victim. This is simply a figure 8 knot with one more turn. Nov 2, 2022 · Find the middle of the rope, tie a butterfly knot for the middle person. Jun 2, 2024 · Note: A sewn sling is preferred here, rather than a length of webbing that you tie with a water knot. Jan 5, 2019 · Related note: if you're ever thinking of rope soloing on an ATC Guide in auto block mode, don’t do it! If you take a lead fall onto an ATC in guide mode, it MIGHT result in some of the following: the rope becoming hopelessly jammed in the device, the blocking carabiner twisting and doing weird things, and the ropes becoming inverted and thus losing almost all braking power. Be aware that all knots will tighten under load and become smaller. The end people coil the remaining rope for use in a possible rescue. But, many people it tricky; the “rabbit coming out of the hole and running around the tree” thing is not as easy as it might sound. Oct 24, 2018 · 3 - Clove hitch the knot to the highest piece. (On the flipside, the knots can complicate prusiking up the rope and rigging a mechanical advantage system, but the benefits of a shorter and easier to catch fall generally outweigh these shortcomings. Jul 13, 2019 · Use this Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) to move your knot past any crack or crevice near the rap anchor that might snag your knot. In the video they suggest a 90 cm sling, a bit hard to find in the United States. Use a 120 cm and tie a knot to shorten it up. Murphy’s Law of cordelettes: the darn double fisherman’s knot always ends up in the wrong place! Eliminate this problem by clove hitching the cord next to the knot next to your highest piece of gear. Most important, it's very easy to untie overhand knots after it’s been loaded, unlike Aug 4, 2020 · For two person glacier travel, best practice is to have three or four bulky “brake knots” between climbers, intended to minimize the length of a crevasse fall. In these examples I’m using a butterfly. Just tie, dress and tighten properly, and check your damn knots! Perhaps some of the pearl-clutching occurred after the IFMG Exum guide Gary Falk died tragically nine years ago when a tether tied with a water knot released and he fell from the Owen-Spaulding rappel on the Grand Teton. This keeps the joining knot fixed next to the protection and out of the way of your master point. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. This will give perfect equalization, but minimizes extension if one arm of the anchor fails. ) The short version from ENSA: Sep 19, 2018 · This knot is popular with professional ropeworkers, who use it to secure one end of a fixed rope. Jun 17, 2023 · An overhand on a bight, figure 8 on a bight or a butterfly can all work as a knot block. Practice it at home before use in the wild! Knot pass: backside MMO - 2:52 “Defeating the plaquette” with the LSD (Load Stand Direct) method (article and video) Escaping the Plaquette to baseline - 2:38. Brake knots for two person glacier travel . ) This knot has a cool feature of being able to slide the “ears” to two different lengths, to accommodate one bolt that may be a little higher than the other. The blue sling I'm using here is the Edelrid Aramid 120 cm. Measure about seven full arm spans from this middle knot towards one end, and tie a butterfly knot. If you need to do a rescue and want to lift your partner, you may need to remove these knots from your hauling system. But, if you’re rapping with an extra heavy load, toproping with 2 ropes, or just want a little extra confidence, here’s an excellent, easy-to-tie alternative. ) Premium Art Here's another option: Tie a “figure 9” knot rather than an overhand knot to isolate the strands. If the context makes it unclear what you mean, you can use the term “hard knot” to distinguish a true knot from a hitch or bend. Repat for the other half of the rope. Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery Jan 2, 2023 · Instead, use a Tibloc or other type of micro ascender, then clip a sling to it. fwc pnj zbnk stasfyc qvgthw zct oarf xicaycj fqnzv ixnblt